If You’re Going to Do It, Do it Right
December 20, 2007 12:14 pm Beer Musings, Restaurants
As I mentioned in the last Round-Up, last Friday was my girlfriend Irene’s birthday. We celebrated by going to an amazing restaurant that we had heard excellent things about. When we had arrived I was not at all surprised by the lack of a beer menu or even the inclusion of a beer list in the wine menu, that’s pretty par for the course.
I asked my server what beer choices they offered and after the obligatory St. Louis selection he then began listing their craft selection. New Belgium, Boulevard, Schlafly, and a couple of the standard Belgian choices. I was completely deflated. Here I was in one of the best restaurants in St. Louis and these were their choices for beer? It felt like the beer choices were an afterthought and not something chosen to compliment the cuisine.
Bill and I have had the wine/beer debate for quite some time and for the most part I agree with him. Wine still has the perception of being a more upscale drink than beer, which is normally viewed as the beverage of the working man. Wine can be sold for a much higher profit margin, especially when sold by the glass, than beer which makes it more attractive to restaurateurs.
Some of the things in beer’s favor is that it has less of a footprint and therefore requires less storage space than wine. You’re usually only opening one 12oz bottle at a time so there is no need for quality control concerns (unless the beer isn’t selling.) Not to mention that draught beer also provides a mighty mark-up if you have the space and the equipment to do so.
So given some of it’s upsides why is it that restaurateurs and chefs don’t put more effort in choosing the beers that they offer in their restaurant? If you were to visit a world class restaurant and ordered a cup of coffee, would you be unhappy if they served you Folgers? If you ordered a mixed drink would you be OK with them using Popov? Of course not, you expect more out of a restaurant like this. So why is it OK for beer to get the shaft?
I fully understand that (especially in St. Louis) you’re never going to get away from serving beers from the big boys. People love their light lager and when they order a beer, they better have their go-to. I also understand that there is always going to be limited shelf space because of the smaller mark-up that beer has compared to it’s cousin wine. But if you’re going to offer a selection of beer, why can’t the beers that aren’t from the big boys be something that offers your customers some intriguing flavors and aromas that will help to compliment your food? Why should the beer choices be so blasé?
If it’s just a matter of education all you need to do is find a local beer nerd, we’ll be more than happy to talk your ear off about beer and help put together a beer menu to be proud of. If it’s a concern that the beer won’t sell then maybe it’s a matter of educating your staff or even providing a beer menu! There is no reason that you have to have the same old beer choices as everyone else, you just have to take the first step and make it right.
(If you haven’t figure it out by now I’m being very ambiguous about the restaurant we went to on Friday night. I really liked the place and don’t really want to trash it. But this post is really directed at all restaurants who want to hold their food and wine selections to a very high caliber but don’t do the same for beer. )
Tags: beer menu, education, Restaurants, selection

Jeff :
Date: December 20, 2007 @ 2:09 pm
Coming to Missouri from Metro-Detroit, I see it more as a distributor thing than a city thing. We had some of the best beer in the country in Michigan, but most times you won’t see it on a nice or expensive restaurant’s menu - not even to mention on a corner bar’s list.
Distributors control everything. They make you buy what they want you to have.
Mike :
Date: December 20, 2007 @ 2:13 pm
That was one of my thoughts as well. If you’re not very versed in beer you’re going to rely on your distributor for assistance and of course they’re going to point you to the same reliable beers everyone else serves.
L :
Date: December 20, 2007 @ 2:36 pm
The Royale on S. Kingshighway doesn’t serve any of the Big Boy’s Beer, and I think they never have. You should check it out…maybe you’ll like their beer selection? I do think that their wine menu does get more description, etc… though. Chagrin!
Mike :
Date: December 20, 2007 @ 2:45 pm
I don’t really have any issue with bars and restaurants serving beer from BMC (Bud, Miller Coors.) I only take umbrage when it’s all they serve.
I’ve driven by the Royale many times, but I haven’t had a chance to make it in yet.
Sam Huff :
Date: December 20, 2007 @ 3:01 pm
i’ve seen this at many St. Louis restaurants and bars. The main thing that drives me up the wall is when they list all the BMC beers on the menu and then have the disclaimer on the bottom that reads “ask you server about local beers and seasonals” to which the usually respond “Sam Adams, Chill, Corona, and the Sam Adams Seasonal”.
I understand that most owners don’t know beer, but isn’t that where you start listening to your customers? There are two very good micros here in town and I’ll be damned if I can’t go to 90% of any St. Louis restaurants and get an O’Fallon 5 day or a Schlafly Export IPA. I can get all the Pale Ale I want but usually thats about it.
Mac :
Date: December 21, 2007 @ 1:49 am
Uh, I believe you are talking about Niche…
I said the exact same thing to Bill, after my first visit last Sunday.
That being said, Erato in Edwardsville, appears to have a very nice beer selection, as does Bailey’s Chocolate Bar.
Matt Robinson :
Date: December 24, 2007 @ 12:43 pm
I also enjoy when the resturant puts “Killians Irish Red” and “Blue Moon Belgian” under the import section.
Are there any resturants that specialize in pairing food and beer? Some of the really good brewpubs do a good job it, but they are producing the beer, so that should be expected to some extent.